Last checked: Thursday 30 July 2026. The situation is changing daily, so please check the official links at the bottom before you plan anything. I’m posting updates on Instagram as things change, so follow along there if you’re here now.
If you’re in Bordeaux this week and every headline you read says Gironde is burning, the first thing worth knowing is how big this département actually is. Saint-Émilion, where most visitors go for their vineyard day, sits more than 80 km from the fires. Its tourist office has been fielding cancellations all week anyway, including groups booked for September.
How close are Bordeaux’s vineyards to the fires
Both things are true at once. Despite being the largest wildfire in France since 1949, much of the surrounding region is continuing with daily life.
This article is for people who are already here, or arriving in the next few days, and want to know what a day actually looks like. It doesn’t try to tell you whether to travel. That depends on your health, your dates and your tolerance for uncertainty, and I’m not going to pretend otherwise.
The fire started at Saumos on 22 July and has burned around 42,000 hectares. Everything that has burned is west and southwest of the city: the Cap Ferret peninsula, Lège, Le Porge, Lacanau, Saint-Jean-d’Illac, and on into the Landes.
Bordeaux itself was never evacuated. Around 100,000 people in seven suburbs outside the rocade were moved as a precaution on 25 July, which is where a lot of the alarming footage came from. As of Thursday morning, the préfecture, the branch of the French state that runs the département and makes these calls, has authorised another 84,000 people to go home across nine towns. More than half of everyone evacuated since 22 July is now cleared to return.
The wine regions people actually visit have not burned. Saint-Émilion, the Médoc, Pauillac and the Entre-deux-Mers are all untouched. The Libournais is about 70 km from Cap Ferret and the châteaux there have been running tours through the whole thing.
How to check the air before you plan your day
This is the part that actually decides what you do, and it changes within hours depending on the wind.
The smoke has been reaching Bordeaux in waves since 24 July. Wednesday 29 July was rated mauvais on the European index. Thursday 30 July is forecast at dégradé, which is a real improvement, though fine particles were still measuring badly at six in the morning. Some days the city smells like a bonfire and the light goes strange and orange. Other days you’d barely know.
Two things worth doing before you leave your hotel:
Look at the wind direction. Bordeaux gets Atlantic westerlies most of the time, which is exactly why the smoke has been arriving here, and also why it clears within a day or two when the wind turns.
ATMO Nouvelle-Aquitaine index for air quality
If you want a mask, any pharmacie sells FFP2. They’re the ones that filter fine particles, and you’ll see plenty of people wearing them at Saint-Jean station. A surgical mask won’t do much.
Note – if anyone in your group has asthma or a respiratory condition, this is a conversation for a doctor and not for a travel blog. The Gironde prefecture runs an information line on 09 70 80 90 40, and it works from abroad on +33 9 70 80 90 40.
What to do in Bordeaux when the air is bad
Normally I’d tell you the best of Bordeaux is outside and free, and that the museums come second. This week is the exception, and it feels odd to write it.
La Cité du Vin wine museum in Bordeaux
On a heavy-smoke day, the indoor options are genuinely good ones:
Bassins des Lumières in Bacalan, the immersive art space inside the old submarine base. It’s enormous, it’s cool inside, and the building alone carries the visit even if the exhibition isn’t to your taste.
La Cité du Vin, where the building itself is a piece of modern art. Its shape is inspired by the movement of wine swirling in a glass; you can see it from a long way off, and it lifts the whole grungy port around the Bassins à Flot. I’ve written a full guide to visiting it.
Les Halles de Bacalan, directly across the road from the Cité du Vin, where you can eat oysters and cannelés and drink your way through a few producers without going back outside.
Musée d’Aquitaine for the city’s history, including the parts about the slave trade that Bordeaux took a long time to talk about openly.
CAPC, the contemporary art museum in a converted colonial warehouse, where again the space does a lot of the work.
Marché des Capucins in the morning for oysters and white wine at the counter, which is indoors and is what people here do anyway.
Note – on a clear day, take the self-guided walking tour and get outside while you can. The forecast is improving, and the architecture is still the reason people fall for this city.
Bassins de Lumières
Wine country is east, and it’s open
If you came for vineyards, you can still have that day. You just go east instead of west.
Saint-Émilion by train takes about 35 minutes from Gare Saint-Jean, and the line east is running normally. The walk from the station to the village is around 20 minutes. A lot of people assume you need a car for the wineries, but that’s not entirely true here: there are châteaux within walking distance of the village, and the wine boutiques in Saint-Émilion will pour you plenty without going anywhere.
Saint Emilion by Lost in Bordeaux
Book ahead. That’s true in August in any year, and it matters more now because staff have been reorganising around cancellations.
Being clear about this is more useful than a long list of alternatives.
Festivals, concerts, sporting events, or organised cultural events in Gironde. The préfecture has banned all of them until 06:00 on Saturday 8 August, on the grounds that air quality is bad for prolonged outdoor gatherings and that events pull resources away from the fire. If you have a ticket for anything in the next week, assume it’s off and check with the organiser rather than the venue.
The Bassin d’Arcachon (the town of Arcachon is open but air quality can deteriorate quickly), Cap Ferret, Lacanau and the Dune du Pilat. The Cap Ferret peninsula was fully evacuated and around a hundred businesses there have lost the season entirely. Two of ten campsites burned. This is not a “check and see” situation.
Anything in the forest. Gironde has been at vigilance noire, the top level, since midnight on 25 July. Access to forest massifs and sensitive natural areas is prohibited until further notice, and sports, leisure and cultural events in forest communes are banned. That covers the cycling routes through the pines, the coastal trails and most of what people plan around Lacanau.
The beach is not happening this trip. If that was the whole point of your holiday, the honest answer is that the Atlantic coast north of the Bassin will still be there next summer, and the people who run it will be very glad to see you.
Grand Piquey (Cap Ferret )- by Lost in Bordeaux
Getting around this week
Air travel and the eastern rail lines are the reliable parts.
Bordeaux airport is operating and flights are running to schedule. Check before you set off anyway.
Trains east to Libourne, Saint-Émilion, Périgueux, Agen and Toulouse have been running. You can book tickets online if you’d rather not deal with the SNCF site in French.
Trains south and west are the problem, and this is the part most likely to catch you out. TER services in the Bordeaux, Arcachon and Morcenx triangle have been suspended since 26 July, and SNCF has said nothing runs south of Bordeaux until Sunday, apart from the Agen and Toulouse lines. Crews still can’t reach parts of the track to inspect it. Affected tickets can be cancelled or exchanged free of charge.
Roads. The A63 reopened from 14:00 on Thursday. Other roads across Gironde and the Landes are still closed or restricted, and some areas are simply inaccessible.
In the city, trams and buses are running normally.
Alternatives to the Bordeaux region
If all of this has worn you down and you’d rather spend the rest of your holiday elsewhere, that’s a fair call, and the southwest is big. The Dordogne, Cognac, La Rochelle, Biarritz and Toulouse are all well away from the fire and still easy to reach by train. My list of the best getaways from Bordeaux was written for weekends away, but any of them works as an alternative to the region for a longer stay.
Place du Capitole in Toulouse – photo: Lost in Bordeaux
Note — Some of the links in this article include affiliate links for which I earn a small commission. It adds absolutely nothing to your cost and helps me continue writing about this amazing region. Don’t worry, I’m not getting rich here, I’ll never recommend anything I don’t believe in!
Night markets are one of the best ways to experience the Southwest of France in summer. As the sun sets, village squares fill with food stalls, local producers, live music, and long communal tables where locals and visitors gather to eat, drink, and enjoy the evening.
To help you plan your summer, I’ve put together a list of night markets in Gironde, Dordogne, Lot-et-Garonne, and Les Landes. Information about these events can be surprisingly difficult to find, and schedules sometimes change, so it’s always worth checking with the local tourist office before you go.
Soulac-sur-Mer – Every Tuesday in July and August near Plage de l’Amélie. See info here. Talais – Place de la Mairie – Every Wednesday from July 8 to August 26 – see info here. Lacanau Plage – Boulevard de la plage, – Every Friday from July 3 to August 28 – see info here. Hourtin Plage – Esplanade du port, Avenue Jean Lafitte – Every Monday in July and August- info. * This one is more of a creators’ market than a food market. Hourtin Port – Every Friday in July and August at Place du Port. See info here.
*Check out my guide to Medoc before going there so you won’t miss the best places to visit. For more night markets in Médoc, visit the tourist office website.
The night market of La Bastide de Monségur
More night markets in Gironde
La Bastide de Monségur – Place Robert Darniche – every Wednesday in July and August. See more info here. Blasimon – Place de la République – every Wednesday from July 14 to August 15 – info La Réole – Place de la Marie – July 3 and August 7 – info.
Night Markets in Dordogne
Dordogne is the undisputed king of night markets. Throughout the summer, several markets take place every evening in villages across the department, so you can simply pick the one closest to where you’re staying.
Monday – Beaumont du Périgord, Montignac, Sainte-Mondane Tuesday – Le Bugue (which has a great morning market on Tuesdays as well), Eymet, Saint-Amand de Coly, Villefranche du Périgord. Wednesday – Belves, Saint-Geniès, Souillac, Lamonzie-Saint-Martin. Thursday – Saint Cyprien, Cadouin, Issigeac, Sarlat (creators market), Biron Friday – Le Buisson de Cadouin, Salignac, Les Éyzies, Brantôme Saturday – Audrix, Saint-Pompon. Sunday – Monbazillac, Cénac
Biscarrosse Plage – at Place Dufau – Every day starting at 20:00, during July and August – info. Parentis en Born – Place du Général de Gaulle – every Tuesday – info. Sanguinet – at Place du Marché – every Wednesday and Saturday – info. Vieux-Boucau-les-Bains – at Grand’Plage parking – every Monday during July and August – info. Capbreton – Every Wednesday evening during the summer- see the eventshere. Labenne -at Parking Manaoc – every Monday during July and August – info.
*Here you can find many more night markets taking place in Les Landes.
You can also get plenty of tips on things to do in the Southwest of France via lost in Bordeaux’s social media accounts and email list, check them out here:
When you visit Bordeaux, dedicating at least a day or two to its countryside is a must. Gironde is the biggest department in France, and one of the things that makes it so interesting is how varied it is. Within a short drive from Bordeaux, you can go from wine villages and medieval towns to little oyster villages on the coast.
That’s also what makes these villages different from the ones you might know from Dordogne or the Basque Country. Around Bordeaux, the mix is wider. Some places are all about vineyards and old stone streets, others are tied to the river, and some feel completely shaped by the Atlantic coast.
In this article, I gathered some of the most beautiful villages in Gironde, all easy to visit on a day trip from Bordeaux. My list includes villages in Cap Ferret, wine towns, and medieval villages in the south of Gironde.
Note – most villages on this list require a car to get to. I usually use Discover Cars to find the best deals in France. If you want more ideas for trips by train from Bordeaux, check out my full article about day trips from Bordeaux by public transport.
How to choose which village to visit near Bordeaux
Not all villages around Bordeaux feel the same, so it really depends on the kind of day trip you’re looking for:
If you want vineyards and wine, go to Saint Emilion.
If you want to see the Atlantic coast, head to L’Herbe (Cap Ferret) or Soulac-sur-Mer.
If you prefer river views and citadel towns, Bourg and Blaye are great options.
If you’re into old stone villages and medieval heritage, choose Saint-Macaire, Bazas, Cadillac, Rions, or La Réole.
And if you’ve already seen the main spots and want something more off the beaten path, go to Castelmoron-d’Albret.
This also makes it easier to choose if you don’t have time to visit more than one or two places.
Saint Emilion – photo by Lost in Bordeaux
Beautiful villages in the Bordeaux wine region
This part of Gironde is all about vineyards and wine villages. Saint Emilion is well known, but the other villages in this area are much less visited and are a great opportunity to discover a more hidden side of Bordeaux’s wine region.
Saint Emilion
You can’t really do a list of villages in the Bordeaux wine region without including Saint Emilion, can you? This medieval village is known all around the world for its wine, but it’s also one of the most beautiful villages near Bordeaux.
Located about 45 minutes from Bordeaux, Saint Emilion is packed with historical monuments, some dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. One of the most impressive ones is the 11th-century Monolithic Church, carved directly into the limestone cliff. It’s the largest underground church in Europe.
Saint Emilion by Lost in Bordeaux
The village center is dense and quite small, filled with wine shops, restaurants, and narrow cobbled streets. It’s very touristy, especially in July and August, so if you’re visiting in high season, make sure to book restaurants and activities in advance.
How to get from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion: To get to the village, you can take a direct train. There are several chateaux to visit within walking distance from the train station, but renting a car will give you the opportunity to visit a huge variety of wineries. You can read more about ways to get there here.
Blaye
Blaye is a wine town located about 50 km north of Bordeaux, in one of the lesser-known appellations of the region. It’s one of the most interesting places to visit around Bordeaux, with a mix of history, views, and wine.
This little town has a long military and strategic history and is mostly known for its remarkable Citadel. The Citadel and city walls are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can easily spend half a day exploring them. The entrance is free, and you can walk along the ramparts with beautiful views over the Gironde estuary.
Blaye is also well known for its red wine, which I really like and find reasonably priced. You can visit the Maison du Vin on the main street (12 Cours Vauban), where they’ll introduce you to the wines of the region and the châteaux you can visit around Blaye.
How to get from Bordeaux to Blaye? The easiest way to get there is by car (click here to find the best deals). If you’re traveling in the Medoc wine region, you can also get there by ferry. The ferry leaves from Lamarque, and you can check the timetable and prices here. You can also take bus 430 from the Cité du Vin- see schedule here.
Bourg sur Gironde
Bourg is a village located at the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, in the Côtes-de-Bourg appellation. It’s smaller and quieter than Blaye, but just as interesting if you’re looking to explore a less-visited part of the Bordeaux wine region.
Playing a key role in the region’s history, Bourg was fortified by the English and visited by several kings, including Louis XIV in 1650. Just like its neighbor, Blaye, Bourg also has an impressive citadel, Château de la Citadelle.
Apart from the citadel, the historic center has a small central square with restaurants and shops, and a weekly market that takes place every Sunday.
Bourge is also known for its great wine, labeled under the Côtes-de-Bourg appellation. Don’t miss a visit to the Maison des Vins, which acts as a venue for exhibitions, talks, receptions, tasting classes, meetings with winegrowers, and more. You can also see the map of all the wineries here, it’s better to call them before your visit.
Whether you choose Blaye or Bourg, I highly recommend staying at the stunning Domaine La Corniche, located between the two towns.
How to get from Bordeaux to Bourg: Driving is by far the easiest option if you want to get to Bourg. But if you don’t mind the effort, you can also catch a tram to Lormont and then a bus to Bourg – line 431.
Villages on the Atlantic coast near Bordeaux
South-east of Bordeaux, the landscape changes again. This area is home to some of the oldest villages in Gironde, with fortified gates, arcades, and quiet stone streets.
L’herbe
L’Herbe is a traditional oyster-farming village located on the Cap Ferret peninsula (Lege Cap Ferret). This is not your typical French village, there’s no central square, no bakery, and no medieval gates. And yet, it’s one of the most beautiful places in the southwest of France, at least in my opinion.
L’Herbe – by Lost in Bordeaux
There’s something raw and authentic about L’Herbe. You can walk between the colorful oyster huts, see oyster farmers at work, and stop at one of the small cabanes to taste oysters, usually served with bread, butter, pâté, and a glass of white wine.
Cap Ferret is a village located at the southern tip of the Cap Ferret peninsula, on the western side of the Bassin d’Arcachon. It has long been known as a summer getaway for the French upper class. Although it has become more popular with tourists in recent years, it still manages to keep its relaxed beach village atmosphere, especially compared to Arcachon.
oyster huts in Cap Ferret – by Lost in Bordeaux
Cap Ferret is shaped by both the Atlantic Ocean and the bay, with long sandy beaches on one side and oyster-farming villages on the other. It’s also known for its ostréiculture, and the colorful oyster huts along the bay give the village a very distinct character.
If you want to make the most of your day there, rent a bike and cycle through the pine forest and along the beaches. There are plenty of bike rental shops in the village, Beach Bikes is a good one to check first.
You can read my full guide on how to spend time in Cap Ferret here.
📍 For a perfect weekend in Cap Ferret, check out Les Chambres du Phare, a cozy B&B within walking distance from the beach.
How to get from Bordeaux to L’Herbe and Cap Ferret The easiest way to get here is by car. There is a way to get there by bus bit it’s a bit more complicated. You can take bus 410 from the center of Bordeaux to the beginning of the peninsula (ARÈS LÈGE-CAP FERRET) – from there you can take the local line Alego (bus number 3), which stops in every village along the coast, including L’herbe and Cap Ferret.
Soulac-sur-Mer is one of the highlights of the Médoc Atlantique, located about 90 km from Bordeaux, at the northern tip of the Médoc.
If you’ve been to Arcachon, Soulac might feel familiar. The town center, with its market and restaurants, has a similar feel to Ville d’Été, while the area with its 19th-century villas reminds many people of Ville d’Hiver.
Soulac is known for its long sandy beaches, which attract many French visitors in the summer. There are plenty of restaurants in the center and along the seafront, with seafood playing a big role on most menus.
Every June, the town hosts Soulac 1900, one of my favorite events in the region, with music, costumes, and vintage cars from the early 20th century.
How to get from Bordeaux to Soulac-sur-Mer There’s a direct train from Bordeaux to Soulac. You can also combine this trip with a wine trip to Medoc – here are my favorite wineries in Medoc.
Medieval villages in the southeast of Gironde
I’ll finish this list with the Entre-deux-Mers region and the south-east of Gironde, my go-to area when I’m in the mood for medieval villages. This is one of the most interesting parts of the region if you want to see a different side of Bordeaux, with older towns, stone architecture, and a strong historical feel.
Most of the villages on this list are located close to one another, so you can easily visit a few of them over a weekend. Public transport is quite limited here, so it’s best to come by car, or by bike if you enjoy longer rides. I’ve still added public transport options where possible.
Bazas is one of my favorite towns in the south of Gironde, not only because it’s beautiful but also for its strong Gascon identity. Located about 65 km from Bordeaux, on the edge of the Landes forest, it’s a great stop if you’re exploring this part of the region.
Bazas has a rich past as an important bishopric, which you can still see in its historic center. The main square is home to the impressive Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From there, it’s worth wandering through the smaller streets to see the old houses and quieter corners of the town.
Bazas by lost in Bordeaux
Bazas is also known for its gastronomy, especially its beef. You can try Bazadaise meat in one of the restaurants on the main square, or visit one of the local butcher shops if you want to take some with you.
If you’re looking for a deeper food experience, Anne, an American based in Bazas, offers farm-to-table tours with local farmers and chefs. It’s a great way to discover the region through its food.
How to get from Bordeaux to Bazas This is one of the hardest places on this list to reach by public transport, and I wouldn’t recommend it. Renting a car is the best option.
Saint Macaire
Saint Macaire is one of the best-preserved medieval villages in southeast Gironde, located on the banks of the Garonne River, about 50 km from Bordeaux.
What feels like a quiet village today was once an important city under British rule and was declared a “Ville royale d’Angleterre” in 1341. During the 13th and 14th centuries, it was one of the most prosperous towns in Aquitaine thanks to agriculture and trade.
Today, you can still see that history in its narrow streets, stone houses, and remains of the old fortifications. It’s a lovely place to walk around, but it can feel very quiet outside market days.
Every year at the end of August, Saint Macaire hosts one of the best medieval festivals in the region.
How to get there from Bordeaux to Saint Macaire: There is usually only one or two trains per day from Bordeaux, so public transport is not very practical. You can take a train to Langon, then cross the Garonne and bike or walk along the river to reach the village.
Cadillac
Cadillac is a small town on the right bank of the Garonne River, in the Entre-deux-Mers wine region, about 40 km from Bordeaux. It’s a popular stop, especially in summer, and hard to miss if you’re driving along the D10.
The entrance to the town is quite impressive, with its defensive walls and main gate leading into the medieval center, built in the 13th century.
Its most famous monument is the Château des Ducs d’Épernon, built in the 17th century. The château is known not only for its architecture but also for its unusual history, it served as a women’s prison from the French Revolution until 1950. Today, it functions as a museum. On the upper floors, you can still see the old cells and a small exhibition about the prison.
Cadillac is also known for its wine, under the Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux appellation. You can stop at the Maison des Vins to learn more about the wines of the area and taste a few.
How to get from Bordeaux to Cadillac: You can get there by bus number 481 from the Bastide area in Bordeaux (Place de Stalingrad ). You can check the schedule here.
Rions
Rions is a small and very quiet medieval village located on the banks of the Garonne River, about 5 km from Cadillac. Because of that, it’s best visited together with Cadillac, the two are just a few minutes’ drive from each other.
Like other villages in this part of Gironde, Rions is known for its narrow streets and old stone houses. It doesn’t have many attractions, but that’s also part of its charm. It’s more about walking around and getting a feel for the place.
During the Middle Ages, Rions was an important town and played a role in the Hundred Years’ War between France and England. In 1295, when it was under British rule, it was conquered by Charles of Valois, who destroyed its defensive walls. A few years later, in 1313, the English took it back and rebuilt the fortifications, making it one of the fortified towns of Guyenne. Despite all that, the village kept its character and is now a nice stop for a short visit.
How to get from Bordeaux to Rions: You can take bus number 501 from the Bastide neighborhood in Bordeaux; see the schedule here.
La Réole
La Réole is a small hilly town on the banks of the Garonne River, about 50 km from Bordeaux, and one of the most interesting medieval towns in southeast Gironde.
The town developed around a monastery founded in the 7th or 8th century, but its golden age came in medieval times, when it became the second-largest city in the region after Bordeaux. Today, it’s still one of the main towns in the south of Gironde, with a lively Saturday market and regular local events.
There are quite a few historic buildings to see here, including the 12th-century Town Hall, Saint-Pierre church, the Benedictine abbey, and remains of the old ramparts. It’s the kind of place where it’s best to just walk around and take your time exploring the streets.
If you arrive when the tourist office is open, it’s worth picking up a map of the monuments to help you navigate the town.
How to get from Bordeaux to La Réole This is one of the easiest places on this list to reach without a car. Trains from Bordeaux Saint-Jean take about 40 minutes and run every couple of hours.
Castelmoron d’Albret
Castelmoron d’Albret is one of the smallest and most off-the-beaten-path medieval villages in Gironde. With only about 50 residents and a surface of just 3.5 hectares, it feels completely frozen in time.
Almost every house is covered with colorful roses and flowers spilling out of eclectic pottery made in the village. No house looks the same, every window and door has its own details, which makes it a really fun place to wander around.
There are almost no signs of modern life here, no cars, no sidewalks, just a quiet atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you’ll probably hear your own footsteps… or your kids, in my case.
It takes about an hour to get here from Bordeaux, driving through the hills and vineyards of Entre-deux-Mers. If you want to combine it with another stop, Sauveterre-de-Guyenne is just a few minutes away and worth a visit.
There are also several hiking and cycling routes in the area. You can find a nice trail starting directly from the village here.
How to get there: Getting there by bus is fairly complicated and I would advise going only by car. The closest train station to this village is La Reole but the bus from there to Castelmoron d’Albret is not very regular.
Conclusion
As you can see, there are plenty of beautiful villages around Bordeaux, and what makes this region special is how different they are from one another. From wine villages and medieval towns to oyster villages on the Atlantic coast, you don’t need to go far to completely change scenery.
If you’re planning your trip, I recommend choosing one or two areas and taking your time rather than trying to see everything. Some of these villages are quite close to each other and can easily be combined into a day trip.
If you want help planning your itinerary, you can also check out my Bordeaux map where I’ve pinned my favorite places to visit, eat, and explore around the region.
You can also get plenty of tips on things to do in the Southwest of France via lost in Bordeaux’s social media accounts and email list, check them out here:
Liked the article? Want to read it again when you’re planning your trip to Bordeaux? Save it on your Pinterest board.
*Note – Some of the links in this article include affiliate links for which I earn a small commission. It adds absolutely nothing to your cost and helps me continue writing about this amazing region. Don’t worry, I’m not getting rich here, I’ll never recommend anything I don’t believe in 🙂
